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  • WONDER VITAMINS TO LOOK OUT FOR IN SKINCARE PRODUCTS

    Most of us know the importance of eating enough vitamins and minerals for anti aging purposes, but for the best results it is also essential we apply these topically.

    Studies have shown that vitamin A is particularly effective in combating the signs of aging. It will reduce lines and wrinkles, even out skin tone and may even fade those dreaded pigmentation marks, depending on the severity of these. Vitamin A is an antioxidant, meaning it is a free radical scavenger. It also helps skin to repair, stay moist and produces the enzymes that encourage the production of collagen, needed for plump, youthful skin. One of the main effects of applying vitamin A topically is increased cell reproduction, thus helping our skin rid itself of old cells and replacing these with new healthy ones. This will make our skin look more luminous and even out our skin tone.

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    Unfortunately most products on the market do not include high enough doses of the vitamin to be effective, therefore I would advise you visit a doctor and request a prescription of tretinoin (the most well documented retinoid). This is usually prescribed in doses between 0.025% and 0.1% in either cream or gel format. I would recommend the cream, as this will have a less drying effect on the skin. A word of warning though, vitamin A is not recommended while pregnant as it may damage the development of the baby. It is also not recommended when exposed to high levels of sun, as the skin may be sensitised when exposed to UV rays.

    Vitamin C is another important antioxidant for our skin. Studies indicate that topical application will improve the production of collagen (which will result in plumper skin, evening out wrinkles). Vitamin C has also been shown to reduce the immediate effects of sunburn, especially if used in conjunction with vitamin E.

    However all vitamin C serums/ creams are not created equally; the vitamin C must be stable to penetrate the skin well. Vitamin C can also become oxidized in the presence of air if not properly stored.  When this happens, not only can the product not boost collagen production, but it can actually CAUSE free radical damage from the corrupted vitamin C. The concentrations must also be high enough to have an effect (at least 10%).

    In the right form and dosage, Vitamin C can be highly effective in improving your skin’s texture, reducing fine lines and preventing further free radical damage. A good product range is SkinCeuticals, my mother and I have both used CE Ferulic with excellent results.

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    Vitamin E
    is another important antioxidant, shown to reduce sunburn. It is also believed to reduce moisture loss, thus plumping up the skin and reducing fine lines. The best (the most active form) of this is alpha tocopherol. This form of vitamin E is also found in SkinCeutical’s CE Ferulic.

    Vitamin B3 (niacinamide) is the new kid on the block. It is an antioxidant with some anti-inflammatory properties. Some studies show it is good in treating inflammatory skin conditions such as acne. Other studies show it improves the skin’s hydration and the effects of sun exposure. However this vitamin is still very new in skincare products, and may need further studies for conclusive results.

    Q10 (Coenzyme Q10) is another important antioxidant worth mentioning. Like the vitamins discussed above it neutralises harmful free radicals, which are one of the key causes of aging. It is also believed to increase the skin’s moisture balance, thus smoothing out fine lines and plumping the face. Studies have also shown that applying Q10 topically helps the skin in the production of collagen and elastin, necessary for youthful skin.

    Beneficial antioxidants for skincare goes on and on, but the ones mentioned above are key, and most have been documented as effective free radical scavengers, with specific anti-ageing properties.

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    What next? Which topical vitamins should you chose?

    One should determine ones own skin condition, and go from there. What is it that you want to achieve? As I rule, I would recommend vitamin A as first choice for skin with visible signs of aging (wrinkles, fine lines, pigmentation). This has been documented to reverse the signs of aging, and is used by most dermatologists when working with aging skin. You can also include vitamins C and E in the mornings to protect your skin from further aging.

    If you are younger and simply wish to maintain your youthful looks (from the age of 25) a good choice would be vitamin C and E, as this will protect your skin from aging caused by UVA and UVB rays (also damaging in winter) as well as environmental pollution.

    It is important though, not to overload your skin with products. This is especially true if you are very young. Chose the ingredients your skin is telling you it needs, and only pick the ingredients you need – no more, no less. And remember to choose the best ingredients you can find in each class, as all products are not created equal.



     

     

  • VITAL VITAMINS

    My mum has been popping a range of pills since as long as I can remember. At first I thought she must be insane, but as time went by and she managed to age far more gracefully than her friends (and experienced no menopause!) I realised she must be on to something.

    There is a range of vitamins that can really support us in our fight against free radicals (those horrible things that destroy our cells and thereby cause disease and ageing of our skin). The key vitamins I am referring to are vitamins A, E, C and B. These are all excellent antioxidants, and can be taken in supplement form if you are not getting enough of these vitamins in your diet. Few of us are.

    Unfortunately most of us are also nowadays deficient in minerals, as the earth does not contain the same amount as it did one hundred years ago. Minerals are essential as they help the body produce antioxidant enzymes that also destroy those dreaded free radicals. The most important minerals for this process to take place include manganese, zinc, copper and selenium. I would recommend using a good quality multi mineral supplement to ensure a sufficient intake of these minerals.

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  • SUGAR KILLS- AND AGES YOUR SKIN

    Sugar is a killer. It is also very, very bad for our skin. It is important to understand what happens in the body when sugar is consumed.

     

    When you eat sugar, glucose levels are instantly raised in the body. This in turn raises insulin levels so that glucose can be converted into energy. However, when glucose levels are high on an ongoing basis, or sugar levels are raised too quickly (when eating sugar/ refined grains), the insulin can no longer match the glucose levels, which means the glucose cannot be converted into energy and as a result circulates in the body causing harm. This can make us fat, prone to infections and will in time ruin our skin. In short, when sugar is not turned into energy in our body, it poisons it.

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    Excess Glucose is Bad News for our Skin

     

    The circulating glucose binds itself to the proteins in our skin (the collagen and elastin fibres, which we know are the building blocks of our skin!). This causes the collagen and elastin fibbers to stick together, which in turn means fine lines, puffiness and wrinkles are formed.

     

    The glycation process also causes elastin and collagen to mutate, creating harmful new molecules called Advanced Glycation End products (AGEs), which accumulate and cause inflammation and damage to your collagen and elastin. The inflammation can then be expressed as various skin disorders such as acne, eczema, psoriasis and other more serious internal diseases such as arthritis.

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    So How do we go About saving our Skin?

     

    Clearly we need to avoid sugar from cakes, biscuits, and sweets… the list goes on. But there are also other food sources that cause glycation in the way that sugar does. These foods include carbohydrates- the flour and grains found in bread, pasta, cereals etc. These grains can be divided into two camps; the wholegrain and the refined or white grain group.

     

    White grains are extremely harmful the body and also our skin. They raise our glucose levels in the same way that sugar does and also affect our skin in the same way as sugar, avoid these grains at all costs! Whole grains in excess can also be bad news for our skin; although they contain more vitamins and minerals, over consumption will also cause excess glucose to wander around the body, again affecting your skin like sugar and white grains do. So everything in moderation!

     

    Alcohol is also loaded with sugar, but it is also a great way of relaxing and enjoying yourself. Again the key here is moderation. A good choice of drink is a glass or two of dry, white wine.  

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    There is so Much we Can't do, what Can we do?

     

    We are so used to high carb, high sugar diets, that it may seem we will stop living our lives to the full if we leave these out. This is not the case, it just takes a bit of getting used to and finding delicious foods that supplement those that harm us.

     

    Important foods for your diet include fresh fruits and vegetables; these will support your immunity, stabilise vitamins in your skin tissues, protect you from various diseases and will ultimately halt premature ageing. It is best to eat these foods raw, as the vitamins will be preserved this way. The body will also be able to utilise the plant energy most efficiently.

     

    Proteins are essential for the skin to carry out its work- creating nerves, muscles, collagen and enzymes, which are key to youthful skin. The best quality protein comes from animal sources as these offer complete proteins. These include eggs, fish, meat and game, of course best eaten organic.

     

    Essential fatty acids will help you get leaner (lose fat!), are anti-inflammatory (which we know is key to anti ageing), will lower your cholesterol and help you deal with stress. The essential fatty acids include omega-3, 6 and 9. You will find these in avocados, nuts, seeds, wild fish, game, flax seed and extra virgin olive oil. Another great oil is coconut oil; it helps lower cholesterol and will aid your body to shed its fat stores. It also reduces cravings for sugar.

     

    Focus your diet around these three pillars- fruits & vegetables, proteins and essential fatty acids and your skin should start to see immediate improvement; inflammation will cease to exists, wrinkles will fade, your face will plump up and you will experience energy levels as never before. This is what Dr. Perricone and health and beauty guru Leslie Kenton promise, who are both experts in the field of anti ageing. But be patient, as it takes around four weeks for your skin cells to renew themselves. Good luck!

  • AN APPLE A DAY KEEPS THE WRINKLES AWAY!

    We all know apples are beneficial for overall health, but apple stem cell extract is also now used in skincare products to combat the signs of ageing.

    As we age our cell turnover decreases; new cells are produced less frequently in the basal layer of our epidermis (top layer of our skin), which in turn means a growing number of dead skin cells appear on the top of our epidermis. As this occurs, our skin loses its youthful glow and fine lines and wrinkles begin to appear. Stem cells are self-renewing and are undamaged by age, sun or pollution and therefore key to keeping the skin luminous, supple and youthful.

    There have been products activating skin stem cell production on the market since 2005; the first ones included human stem cells, which is somewhat controversial as these could contain human diseases like mad cow.

    The latest headlines however are caused by an apple stem cell extract, which comes from a rare Swiss apple called Utterwiler Spatlaber. This apple is known for its ability to stay fresh and not only has the ability to prolong a cells life, but also boosts the production of new skin stem cells leading to younger looking skin. This is believed to reduce wrinkles, dryness, inflammation and other symptoms of premature ageing.

    I am excited about Stem Cellin, and plan to invest in the serum by this brand when my budget permits. Other brands using this wonder ingredient include My Skincare, Reprint, Elions, Oskia and Emerge Labs.

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  • STOP AGE- THE GADGET THAT PROMISES TO PLUM UP YOUR SKIN AT HOME

    Walking through Selfridges yesterday, I was stopped by a representative of Stop Age, an anti-ageing gadget, which claims to stop and reverse signs of ageing by strengthening the skin's collagen foundation. Now as we know, this is great news for us, as a loss of collagen is the reason we develop wrinkles.

    So how does this wonder machine work?

    Stop Age is based on radio frequency technology, which when applied to the skin, heats the skin from the inside. The heat in turn stimulates the creation of collagen and thickening of the dermis, which is then said to result in tighter, firmer and renewed skin. As with any anti-ageing gadget, Stop Age also requires some time and commitment from our part. Although the manufacturer promises results from the first treatment onward, the real results are said to appear after a six-week treatment course, using the equipment 3 times per week for around 15 minutes at a time.

    So what is the verdict on Stop Age?

    The representative applied a gel to the area I wished to have treated (around my eye), and then circled the gadget around the area, until I felt a pleasant heat. A red light blinked after about five minutes, which indicated that the area had been treated. This is quite clever as each person will achieve optimal heat (which stimulates collagen production) after different treatment times, and the machine will let us know when this is.

    I did not see a noticeable difference after the first treatment, but while I was walking home I could feel a cool sensation in the area, which made me believe something was happening in my skin. The next morning I also found the treated eye area looked somewhat smoother than the untreated area, the shadow around the treated eye was also more faint. However, if the product does increase collagen production noticeable results should not be expected before having completed the six week course, as collagen production takes time.

    The science and promises around the product are definitely interesting; whereas facial muscle toners improve muscle tone (which I also believe is important), this gadget promises increased collagen production, which is key to a firm wrinkle-free face. Although this is an interesting product, I would only recommend this to those who are very committed as Stop Age is not cheap. It retails at around £400, including gels and moisturiser. Nevertheless, if the results are what the manufacturers claim, this is a bargain compared to professional collagen stimulating treatments, such as Thermage.

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  • TRIAL RESULTS - FACIAL ACUPRESSURE

    A while ago I wrote an insert on facial acupressure; stimulating facial muscles by pressing certain pressure points on the face followed by stroking movement to rid the face and body of toxins, stimulate circulation and the flow of Qi energy (which the Chinese believe is lacking as we age). It is also believed that facial acupressure is beneficial for stimulating the collagen producing process, which in turn smoothes out wrinkles and softens the skin.

    Sounds good, no?

    So what are you waiting for girls, acupressure is the way forward! I have religiously been using the movements mentioned in my earlier insert for the past 2.5 months and can say the results are very positive. My face has a clear glow, my skin colour seems to be more even and my lines are somewhat smaller. One big plus is that the bags under my eyes seem smaller. In fact people often comment on how good my skin looks (which was not the case at the beginning of the year). I can confidently say that facial acupressure is a fabulous way to help you look stuntastic.

    Adding these simple exercises to your morning (and evening) routines will make all the difference to your complexion. Have a look at the earlier inserts regarding acupressure to find the routine I have been working with. I am now moving on to the Dreamworks Elevate facial muscle toner- I will keep you updated!

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  • GO FOR ORGANIC BEAUTY TO STAY YOUNG

    We have already established the importance of eating organic foods; this ensures we do not overload our body with toxins, chemicals and hormones. It is actually equally important we apply this rule to our skin care regime.

    Why is this? Because as with food these poisons produce free radicals which are responsible for ageing the skin. As most of you are aware, the skin is our largest organ and responsible for sensation, heat regulation, protection, vitamin D production, secretion and absorption.  The skin is in fact so effective in absorbing, that various medications can be administered through the skin (nicotine patches and ointments for example). This means the beauty products we use on our skin will also enter our blood stream (60% to be exact). With this in mind it is clear that we need to ensure our skin care regime is natural and organic. But what is natural and organic, and which are the best products to use? This is the big question, as the information on the packaging is not always 100% true.

    Many manufacturers state that the products are "natural", when in fact they are loaded with chemicals. The best way to ensure that products are good for you is to read the ingredients list. A good rule of thumb is to stay away from products with various numbers in their ingredients list and with ingredients you cannot pronounce. There are many product lines out there; the best place to find a varied selection is in a natural food store, such as Fresh & Wild. I love Jurlique, it is luxurious, natural and effective. It also smells great. Other good brands include Green People, Living Nature, Pai and Barefoot Botanicals.

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  • SUPERFOODS- A GOOD WAY TO SUPPORT YOUTH

    We have all heard of superfoods; we read about them in most magazines and indulge in them whenever we have the chance to. We also justify those chocolate bars by ensuring ourselves this is a superfood.

    What am I referring to? Red wine, goji berries, green vegetables, chocolate etc.

    And what do they do for us? They fight free radicals, which are one of the main causes of aging. This means they are excellent antioxidants.

    And do they really work? The answer is yes, if used on a regular basis. Remember, it is not the one thing you do that counts, but how you approach life (and diet) as a whole. Every little action counts in terms of skin care, diet, lifestyle, exercise etc. Eating superfoods is one more way of feeding the pot of youth. However there are many more superfoods worth mentioning than those above; these include red grapes, pomegranate powder, peppers, berries, nuts, seeds, natural yogurt, fish, garlic, olive oil, tomato sauce, salsa, sweet potato, dark chocolate, herbs, apples, broccoli and green vegetables. So include these into your diet whenever possible as they do combat signs of aging!

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  • YOU REALLY ARE WHAT YOU EAT- ANTI-AGEING DIET

    Most women I know have a love hate relationship with food- we love every spoon full of cake, but hate ourselves when the piece is consumed. I enter phases where I eat a well balanced diet of organic fruits, vegetables, proteins and carbohydrates. During these times I feel incredible- I have all the energy in the world and my skin is radiant. Even the occasional piece of cake is not a problem as the diet is mainly wholesome and healthy. Then a few months on, when stress and changes occur, one piece of cake leads to another, and my healthy diet is out of the door.

    However if we are set on looking fabulous we must commit to a healthy diet most of the time, and it is not as hard as it seems. Before going into details on diet, I think it is important to understand the causes of ageing.

    Ageing occurs through excess glucose circulating in the body and through free radical damage caused to the cells which in turn causes inflammation. Excess glucose will circulate in the body when it is overloaded with sugar and processed foods (think white bread, pasta etc.) whereas free radical damage occurs because of pollution, excess sun bathing, stress, mobile phones, additives and by consuming smoked or burnt food.

    We can of course avoid the causes of inflammation and free radical damage as much as possible, and we should, but there are still factors we cannot control such as pollution. The good news is we can support our bodies in the quest for youth through eating the right diet and taking the right supplements- those that prohibit inflammation and free radical damage.

    So, in a nutshell what should we do?

    The best way to avoid pesticides and chemicals is to eat mostly organic foods; organic fruits and vegetables also contain more nutrients than non-organic ones. Meals should also be prepared from fresh, non-packaged food to avoid chemicals and preservatives. Inflammation can be reduced by eating oily fish, linseeds, fresh fruit, vegetables, salads, nuts and oatmeal. On the other hand sugar should be avoided at all costs as this causes excess glucose to circulate in the body making your collagen break down. It also encourages inflammation, in fact sugar will age your skin as much as smoking! Luckily there are some good sugar substitutes on the market such as Xylitol, which is a safe, natural sweetener- it can even be used by diabetics. This sugar substitute also contains considerably less calories than sugar and is good for your teeth! A word of caution, this miracle powder is not safe for dogs. Agave nectar is also a good alternative, and can nowadays be found in most supermarkets.

    We all know how important water is for a luminous complexion- one should drink around 2-3 litres per day, but not all water will do; tap water contains chemicals as well as hormone and antibiotic residues. This is why it is important to use a water filter or drink a trusted bottled water brand.

    Unfortunately if we want to maintain our youth we also need to cut down on stimulants- coffee, tea, fizzy drinks and alcohol. Red wine however, is known to be a great antioxidant (as it fights free radicals) so fill up your cupboards on organic red- in moderation of course! Dandelion coffee is also a good alternative to coffee and roibos tea a good replacement for tea. I also live by the “no whites rule”, which means avoiding sugar, wheat and dairy (from cows) as much as possible. I have found this is a great way to control weight and keep energy levels high.

    In summary a good anti-ageing diet should consist of 50% vegetables (non starchy), 20% proteins (lean meat, soya, fish, cheese), 20% fruit and 10% grains (oats, brown rice, quinoa, millet, buckwheat etc.). The vegetables should be raw or lightly cooked to ensure nutrients are preserved and the fruit should be raw (as opposed to juiced). This is a very broad subject, and worth looking into if you have the time. Dr. Perricone has developed an anti-ageing diet based on decreasing the inflammation in the body. He has also written many books on the subject, which are very informative. I would recommend checking out his website www.perriconemd.com which summarizes his theories. You will also find a 3-day facelift diet, which my friend swears by!

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  • FILLERS- MY VISIT WITH RITA RAKUS- THE LONDON LIP QUEEN

    I felt apprehensive but excited as I entered Rita Rakus’ London office next to Harrods; after all she is one of the top non-surgical facial rejuvenation consultants in the UK, having been nicknamed the “London Lip Queen” by the media due to her highly successful lip-enhancing techniques. I quickly felt at ease when met by a friendly receptionist who led me into the posh, but cosy waiting room. I looked around and realised I was surrounded by Knightsbridge-type yummy-mummies, Arabian aristocrats and the odd “normal” looking person. Somehow though, I felt right at home. I kept myself entertained by reading various press cuttings on Dr. Rakus, watching her promotional video and half-heartedly listening in on other women’s conversations out of curiosity.

    After a short while I was called into Rita Rakus’ office, who greeted me with a big smile. I explained I was in to discuss anti-ageing treatments and that I am interested in both fillers and improving the surface of my skin. Dr. Rakus studied at my face intently and congratulated me on its condition; she then recommended I use Restylane for my nose to mouth line. She also said I tend to lift my eyebrows when I speak, and said this would lead to wrinkles on my forehead with time. For this the Lip Queen recommended Botox as a preventative measure. Dr. Rakus’ recommended I use 1 syringe of Restylane for my nose to mouth line, using what’s left over for my upper lip (as I requested this). The price for one syringe is £400, which is at the upper end of the scale. However, I am happy to pay a bit more to ensure good results. Botox-wise, I must say I am not that interested- it is one thing to fill in wrinkles with Restylane as the substance used is naturally occurring in the body and another to freeze the muscles (Botox), which affects facial expressions. 

    However,  looking at Dr. Rakus' regular clients in the waiting room, it was very hard to spot Botox in the women's faces... I was also invited back for another free consultation, this time for a Visia skin analysis- a machine which recommends a treatment program based on a thorough analysis of the skin. The equipment also produces two images- one showing how one will look in five years time with no treatment, and the other one demonstrating how one would look having undertaken the recommended treatment. What a sales trick! I am sure many women would borrow, beg and steal to fix the image that represents them in five years time! But I have of course, due to my inquisitive nature, signed up for another consultation, and I am petrified!

    I am quite certain Rita Rakus is the one for me. I fell in love with her friendly, professional manner and by the fact that she really seemed to know what she was talking about. When I gather up the courage (and finances) for a treatment, it will definitely be with the London Lip Queen!

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